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Overview The Ama Dablam Expedition is a thrilling and challenging mountaineering journey that takes adventurers to the majestic heights of Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic peaks in the Himalayas. Standing tall at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), Ama Dablam also offers a captivating blend of technical climbing, breathtaking landscapes, and cultural immersion. The expedition typically begins in Kathmandu, Nepal, where participants also meet their experienced guides and fellow climbers. After necessary preparations and a thorough briefing, the team embarks on a picturesque flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu region. From there, the trekking portion commences, leading through…
The Ama Dablam Expedition is a thrilling and challenging mountaineering journey that takes adventurers to the majestic heights of Ama Dablam, one of the most iconic peaks in the Himalayas. Standing tall at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), Ama Dablam also offers a captivating blend of technical climbing, breathtaking landscapes, and cultural immersion.
The expedition typically begins in Kathmandu, Nepal, where participants also meet their experienced guides and fellow climbers. After necessary preparations and a thorough briefing, the team embarks on a picturesque flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu region. From there, the trekking portion commences, leading through lush forests, quaint Sherpa villages, and across suspension bridges over roaring rivers.
As the journey progresses, the team also gradually gains altitude and reaches the renowned Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar, a crucial acclimatization point. Here, climbers spend a few days adjusting to the thinning air and exploring the local culture. The expedition then also continues towards Ama Dablam Base Camp, traversing rocky trails, glaciers, and steep ridges, providing a taste of the technical challenges that lie ahead.
Upon reaching Base Camp, climbers prepare for the rigorous ascent. They undergo specialized training, including instruction in glacier travel, rope work, and high-altitude climbing techniques. The climb itself demands a combination of skills, from scrambling over rocky sections to navigating through icefalls and negotiating challenging snow slopes.
Throughout the expedition, climbers are also rewarded with awe-inspiring panoramas of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, among other towering peaks. The summit push typically involves several camps, including Camps 1, 2, and 3, strategically positioned along the route. As climbers progress, they face increasing physical and mental tests, including high winds, extreme cold, and reduced oxygen levels.
Reaching the summit of Ama Dablam is an exhilarating achievement and offers a sense of accomplishment like no other. The view from the top is a well-deserved reward, featuring a 360-degree vista of the Himalayan range that stretches to the horizon.
However, it’s important to note that the Ama Dablam Expedition is a challenging endeavor that requires excellent physical fitness, mountaineering experience, and the ability to withstand harsh mountain conditions. Proper acclimatization, teamwork, and expert guidance are essential for a safe and successful expedition.
In conclusion, the Ama Dablam Expedition is an unforgettable adventure that combines the thrill of mountaineering with the awe-inspiring beauty of the Himalayas. It offers a unique opportunity to test one’s limits, immerse in Sherpa culture, and witness some of the world’s most spectacular landscapes.
Overall, climbing Ama Dablam and trekking in the surrounding region is a challenging and rewarding adventure that offers a unique combination of technical climbing challenges, stunning natural beauty, and rich cultural experiences.
You are heartily welcome to the Himalayan kingdom of Nepal. Upon arrival at (TIA) and after clearing customs and immigration, you will be welcomed, greeted by our personal representative at the arrival zone (we assure you that our complete team roster at Nepal Challenge Trek is professionally certified and is registered with the government). Then, you can relax and experience a hassle free transfer with our private transportation to your own selected hotel in Kathmandu, centrally and conveniently located in the Thamel area of Kathmandu. We will check in and stay the night at the hotel.
We look forward to a pleasant day in Kathmandu experiencing the ancient history and tradition and we will also thoroughly inspect the expedition gears that we would need and use during the expedition.
We will drive to the airport early morning to take our flight to Lukla. After final administration requirements, we’ll fly via Twin Otter/Let L-410/ Cessna/ Dornier to Tenzing and Hillary Airport inLukla (9,000 ft./2740m) approximately 40 minutes’ flight. The scenic 40 minutes’ flight to Lukla offers the panorama of the peaks like Langtang and the Annapurna Himalayan Ranges. Lukla is the gateway to Ama Dablam is based at the foot of Khumbu “Himal” /mountain; from where we will resume the trek to mount Ama Dablam. We will trek 200m downhill to Thado Koshi River and cross a suspension bridge where the view of Mt. Kusum Kangru looks amazing.
Continuing our trek, we will cross a small Buddhist village called Ghat which will lead us to Phakding (2,650m/8,690 ft)-3 hours. Phakding is a small village in the Khumbu region itself. It lies in the DudhKosi river valley just north of Lukla and south of Monjo, at an altitude of 8380 ft, (2610 m). It is one of the UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979.The trail starting at Lukla to Phakding is often the main stopping point for trekkers on their way to Mount AmaDablam as well as Mount Everest.
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bajar 11,042 ft. (3440 m). Namche Bazaar is the staging point for expeditions to Mount AmaDablam and other Himalayan peaks in the area. Our day begins from crossing many suspension bridges over the DudhKoshi River. We will be trekking in a forested trail which leads us to a small Sherpa village; Monjo. As we continue trekking, we will arrive at the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park check post and have our permits registered. The trail climbs through dense forests making it challenging for us. We will also get the first sight of Mt. Everest. Trekking further, we will finally arrive at Namche Bazaar; the gateway to Everest.
Acclimatize in Namche Bajar, a prosperous market town selling everything from Tibetan artefacts to trekking and climbing equipment’s. The visitor center at park headquarters has detailed information on various climbs in the area, memorabilia from different mountaineering expeditions, and information on the lifestyle and culture of the Sherpa people. Trekkers are free to explore Namche Bazaar which is a famous town comprising of numerous cafes and restaurants with Wi-Fi, souvenir and gear shops. Additionally, we have an optional hike to visit the Sagarmatha National Park visitor center and a remarkable hike to Khunde and Khumjung. There is also a Sherpa settlement which is an hour away from Namche Bazaar. We will also be hiking up to Everest View Hotel, where we’ll get a spectacular view of Mt. Everest. We will then head back to Namche Bazaar. A historic trading hub, famous for its homemade yak cheese and butter, Namche is situated on the slope of an arch-shaped mountain, which allows you to oversee the sights of glorious mountain peaks throughout the valley, day and night. Once a capital of Khumbu, where Sherpas from neighboring villages and Tibet would gather to trade commodities, and would display their traditional arts and crafts, Namche Bazaar – to this date – hasn’t forgotten its ancient culture and royal hospitality. After a relaxing acclimatization, we’ll brace ourselves for the trek next day.
5 hours trek to Tengboche. We’ll walk to the beautiful village of Khunde 12,400 ft. (3,780 m), one of the largest villages in the Khumbu and home of Sir Edmund Hillary’s hospital and school. The day’s walk is moderate and pretty, winding through thick cedar forest. On our way upwards, we will also come across the village of Thame 12,464 ft. (3,800 m), off the main trekking path. This gives us an intimate view of the Sherpa culture. Interestingly many world-famous Sherpa’s have come from this region.
Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular! The pointed peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and AmaDablam are visible to the north. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde (20,293 ft./6,185 m), Tawachee (21,457 ft./6,540 m), Nuptse (25,843 ft./7,876 m), Lhotse (27,883 ft/8,498 m), Everest (29,035 ft./8,850 m), AmaDablam (22,487 ft./6,854 m), Kantega (22,235 ft./6,777 m), and Thamserku (21,674 ft./6,606 m).
Trek to Dingboche village, which is at 14, 468 ft. (4410 m) above sea level. You will be able to see a spectacular view of the farmlands and nature. Traditional Sherpa settlement, nunnery, monastery, “Chortens”- Buddhist shrine, typically a saint’s tomb or a monument of the Buddha, Yak and wildlife pastures are the highlights of Tengboche to Dingboche route.
Acclimatization day. This region has lush trees, birch, conifers and rhododendron forest. Walking trail above Somare and Orsho reward the travelers with a pristine view of the Himalayas. Walking along the Imja valley you will be able to view the scenic Dingboche village.
This route has scenic views of the mountainous region. As we trek further AmaDablam appears closer and becomes vividly stunning. Once we reach at the Base camp, we get to see its stunning peaks along with its hanging glacier. The panoramic view of the surrounding mountains are mesmerizing. Overnight at tented camp.
Pre-climb training at Ama Dablam Base Camp and acclimatization. Overnight at tented camp.
Mountaineers usually have to pitch 3 high camps on their way to mount Ama Dablam. The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge, the same route followed by Ward (UK), Bishop (USA) and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers a varied and sustained climb with a reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points. The climb is moderate up to Camp I, then it gets challenging up along the narrow granite ridge. To reach the first camp from base camp, climbers pass the toughest saddle ridges; and then turn north, climbing up through rocky ground and boulders before they reach Camp I. Negotiating pitches of steep ice and snow slopes, the route gets more technical from Camp II. The climbing route from Camp II is mostly steep with mixed alleyways of rock, ice and snow. The route leads to a slope climb to snow ground and then passes through steep snow and ice tunnel, along the snow ridge to reach Camp III. From the third camp, our mountaineers will skirt around the hanging glacier – a sharp ridge and a gap or crevasse at the edge between the ice cliffs, and scale the summit.
From the top of mount Ama Dablam a very charming sceneries of Lhotse (27,883 ft/8,498 m), Everest (29,035 ft./8,850 m) and Makalu (27,838 ft./8,485 m), Khumbu Himalayan and the rest of the snowcapped mountains can be envisioned. After scaling the summit, we return back to the base camp.
Standing at the world’s one of the most prominent peak, is a glorious experience indeed, but it doesn’t come easy! Thin Air, excessive wind, gale, harsh weather conditions, rapid climate change, high altitude and vivid situations are some of the variables that shape the experience of scaling Mt. Ama Dablam.
Trek back to Namche Bazar 11285ft. (3441 m), 6 hours.
Trek to Lukla (2,850m/9,350 ft) – 6-7 hrs
Leisure day in Kathmandu. We will arrange farewell dinner for the team.
Our Staff will drop you at International Airport.
The name “Ama Dablam” means “Mother’s Necklace,” as the peak is said to resemble a mother embracing her child.
Climbing Ama Dablam is considered a technical climb, requiring advanced mountaineering skills and experience. The route to the summit involves steep rock, ice, and snow climbing, as well as the use of fixed ropes and other technical climbing equipment.
Despite its technical challenges, Ama Dablam is a popular destination for experienced mountaineers seeking a challenging climb in the Himalayas. The peak offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, as well as the Khumbu Valley and traditional Sherpa villages.
In addition to climbing, the Ama Dablam region offers several trekking options, allowing trekkers to experience the stunning natural beauty and cultural richness of the Khumbu region. Treks to Ama Dablam usually begin in Lukla and pass through the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site that is home to several rare and endangered wildlife species.
Overall, Ama Dablam is a challenging and rewarding adventure for experienced mountaineers seeking to test their skills and experience the unique beauty and culture of the Khumbu region of Nepal.
We fly from KTM to Lukla, 30 minutes on a twin-otter plane, arriving at 2800m above sea level. We have to take it easy so as to allow our bodies to acclimatize.
On our first day we walk only a couple hours and stay in the small quiet village of Phakding (“next to river”). We use local teahouses and lodges rather than camping on the trek to base camp. Our second day on the trek, it takes us across several narrow swing bridges that span the Dudh-Koshi River (“Milk River”). By mid-afternoon we arrive in the Sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar at 3,440m elevation, where we will allow our bodies to rest and acclimatize at least for two nights.
Once everyone has adjusted sufficiently to the new altitude we walk a further day to the village of Tengbouche at 3910m and we visit the famous Tangboche monastery, which is the one of the oldest and largest Buddhist monastery in the area. And next day we walk through the valley further to Dingboche, from where the spectacular views can be seen. And here we can do acclimatization hiking over 5,000m altitude on Nagarjun Peak. The following day we trek to Chukung valley and we allocate the next 3 days for climbing the Island Peak (6,160m) for better training and proper acclimatization with the high altitude and also getting ready for our main climbing peak Mt. Amadablam. After successfully climbing of Island Peak then we move to Amadablam base camp via Pangbouche where our required expedition logistic will be already set up by our Sherpa team.
Acclimatization climb to Island Peak (6,160m) or Lobuche peak (6119m)
We offer an acclimatization climb to Island peak (6160m) or to Lobuche peak (6119m), this is an additional 3 to 5 days on top of normal plan to Amadablam but this trip maximized your summit success on Amadablam. Once we ascent the 6000m altitude either on Island peak or Lobuche, we don’t need to do acclimatization climb up to that altitude on Amadablam, which minimize some risk on Amadablam. Once we ascent one of the 6000m peak, then we possible push for summit attempt on Amadablam without extra acclimatization rotation, so for this strategy has been working well and successfully accomplished.
High Camps and Climbing Routes
We establish three high camps above base camp to climb Amadablam but these days due to the high risk camping at Camp III, we might do only two high camps and do extra push for summit attempt and return.
Base camp (4,600m):
Situated on a large meadow with a wonderful views of the Imja valley.
BC to Camp 1 (5,795m):
Our first real camp is only one and half-hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp 2 (5,980m):
This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock-climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this campsite is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp 3 (6,440m):
Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three. Camp three is in a cold and exposed position. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day:
For the summit push, we keep open the two options either direct from Camp to Summit and return or start from Camp 3. In 2006 Nov, all most half part of Camp 3 turned into avalanche since then its more risker to sleep overnight at Camp 3, therefore these days more than 80% of the climbers push their summi all the way form Camp 2 with extra push. If we push from Camp 3 the initial route is to the right of the huge “dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6,812m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible with amazing close view of Mt. Everest, along with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
The Cost for the Trip is $6500 Per Person (Group Sharing Basis)
1. Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Ama Dablam, Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipal entry permit and fees.
2 .Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary and accommodation.
3. Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
4. Climbing Sherpa.
Note: Meals, Flight tickets, hotel in Kathmandu will be excluded which not mention above.
Regarding the Documents and Payments you need to do 1 month before.
The Full board Cost is $6500 Per Person. (Group Joining Basis)
